Lei aside your notions of Hawaii. The island of Lanai is something else entirely.
A view of the pool with the beach not so far in the distance.
Jungles, crystal-clear beaches, warm tropical weather and tourists (lots and lots of tourists): Those are the images that come to mind when I think of vacationing in Hawaii. Don’t get me wrong, those things are great, but if you want to try something off the beaten path that’s still in the lap of luxury, then follow me to the little island of Lanai, where you’ll find a calmer, less crowded pace at the secluded Four Seasons Resort Lanai.
But before you pack your bags, make sure you know how to pronounce ”Lanai” like an island local: “Lah-nah-ee.” Say “lah-nigh,” and they’ll think you’re talking about a covered porch, which is nowhere near as glamorous as a trip to the intimate island and world-class resort.
ARRIVE IN STYLE
Lanai is a quick hop to the southeast from Honolulu; Maui is even closer east. While en route to the Lanai, the high red cliffs jutting into the ocean are mesmerizing, the contrast of green pine trees and rusty dirt surreal. I instantly know that this place is nothing like my preconceived notions of Hawaii.
After I snap up my luggage, a shuttle awaits to whisk me away to the Four Seasons. As we drive through hilly terrain and then down a winding road, I can see the sprawling resort that takes over the southern edge of the island. There’s a more traditional-looking, crescent-shaped beach in the distance, and pine trees that give way to palm trees. I’d later learn at the resort, which sits at a lower elevation than the town, the temperature was much warmer, making you feel like you’re in two places at once.
Going into Town
To experience Lanai City and give your bathing suit a rest, go where the locals live, eat and shop. The small town is walkable and features the Lanai Culture and Heritage Center. There, I learned that the island used to be home base for Dole’s pineapple plantations before operations moved to Asia.
There are little galleries and boutiques, too, perfect for grabbing a trinket to commemorate your visit or a souvenir for a loved one. I highly recommend making a stop at Richard’s Market for some unbeatable local poke. I’ve never had better tasting salmon or tuna in my life!
Luxury, Lanai-Style
As soon as I get off the shuttle with my fellow vacationers, a smiling staff is there to greet us with leis and cool pineapple beverages. It feels like I’m standing in the hall of a great palace as we check in. The ceilings are at least 30 feet high, and the warm, dark frames of the gigantic windows and doors open to views of the crystal beach, greenery and bluffs in the distance.
The sheer size of the Four Seasons is a little intimidating, and it takes me much of the first day to get a lay of the land. Immaculate gardens line the paths, and there are ponds and quiet areas to retreat to when you just want to soak in some sun and tropical vibes. Suddenly, getting a little lost doesn’t seem so bad.
My large Garden View room has its own lanai—the “lah-nigh” kind—with a little bit of privacy afforded by lush flowers and shrubs. Treat yourself to a morning with breakfast delivered to your patio, which is an easy thing to do, thanks to the iPad installed at the desk, which makes ordering room service, scheduling activities, getting reservations and more a snap.
From the entrance, little switches command the shades and curtains, offering varying degrees of darkness, a boon for the jet-lagged set. After a quick roll across the ultra-comfy king-sized bed, I check out the masterpiece of a bathroom. The large mirrors have ring lighting, which is super flattering. However, the large walk-in shower encased in glass with a rainfall showerhead and the soaking tub are the true highlights.
A view of a cove and one of the high trails leading to Sweetheart Rock.
Fine Dining with a Side of Views
The Four Seasons doesn’t skimp anywhere, so it’s no surprise that there are five, stellar on-property restaurants to whet your appetite. The bonus is they all look out toward the ocean or lush grounds. There’s Nobu for fusion sushi and teppanyaki. (I was treated to a spectacular show by Chef Hung on my final night.) Or you can hang out at the golf course and soak in the 360-degree views of the resort with cocktails and light foods at the aptly named Views.
For more casual fare, try Malibu Farm and the Sports Bar and Grill. The former is poolside and features fresh, locally sourced ingredients in the form of salads and burgers. The latter is an open-air hot-spot that offers shareable apps like venison pizza and steamed clams, as well as mains like braised short ribs and an ahi poke tower.
My favorite meal is dinner at One Forty, a steakhouse that also offers freshly caught Hawaiian seafood. The Texan in me loved the fact that the menu had no shortage of steaks and chops, but because I’ve had my share of meat and seafood, I opt for one of the island’s newer specialties: the rack of Lanai venison. It’s cooked perfectly and doesn’t have an overly gamey taste. (Fun fact: The island is overrun with Axis deer, and it was only recently that they were approved to be hunted and have their meat sold for consumption.) One Forty is an ideal breakfast spot, too, with continental-style fare as well as dim sum and other local specialties.
Soaking it All Up
As tempting as it can be to lounge at the beach all day with the chair and towel service, or hang out at one of the on-site oases (aka cabana-style pools tucked away in foliage with one designated for adults only), that’s not the only reason to come to Lanai. You want a little bit more excitement, don’t you?
Most of my mornings consisted of sunrise yoga, and it’s hard to think of a more dazzling sight than seeing the sun rise from behind Maui across the sea. Two trails from the beach offer great hiking experiences. I trekked multiple times to Puu Pehe, also known as Sweetheart Rock, from different directions. The large red formation juts out of the ocean, and you can see it from a cliff or down at the magnificent tide pools.
On a sunset sail, one of the crew members indulged us with a “whale bomb,” where he strategically placed a toy whale in front of the camera for a laugh.
Adrenaline junkies will want to book an off-road UTV ride to see the island. A much calmer Jeep excursion is also available to take you to sites such as the stunning Garden of the Gods; one of my travel mates described it as what Mars must look like. Another off-resort activity is horseback riding around the central part of the island; this was when it most feels like I'm in a different kind of Hawaii. Riding through hills and forest, I can't help but think of Seattle, yet just 20 minutes away, sun and sand awaits at the Four Seasons.
Don’t forget to book some sort of sailing excursion, available for whale watching depending on the season, or a sunset trip down the coast complete with surreal pink skies, and in my case, double rainbows to top off a memorable evening. The resort can also arrange for helicopter rides and private flying lessons, in case you somehow miss the gorgeous views of all the forests and red lava rocks on your flight in. Other activities include golfing, snorkeling and scuba diving, archery, clay shooting and deep-sea fishing.
To get rejuvenated, a visit to the Hawanawana Spa is a must. The Sports Massage will work out the kinks and knots, a well-deserved reward for a day’s worth of activities, and the Lomi Lomi massage is pure bliss. The spa offers a variety of beauty treatments as well as packages for couples in suites and even by the pool.
Plan Your Stay
To view all available vacation offers as well as the full list of amenities and activities offered by the resort, visit fourseasons.com/lanai. Plus, to find out how you can arrive in style on the resort's newly launched private jet, visit lanaiair.com.
“I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.”
Lanai is a special place, one that intersects quiet, refined opulence and a lively spirit of adventure and natural romanticism. I was able to unplug, feel pampered by the attentive staff, dine on exquisite food while also never feeling bored or like I had no space for myself. The Four Seasons makes it easy to feel like you can have it all in a perfect package, so why not take Robert Frost's road less traveled? H
Originally published in the Best of 2018 issue of H Texas.
Edited by Amanda Altman. Resort photo and trail photo courtesy of Four Seasons Lanai.